A First Timer’s Guide to Lisbon

Lisbon was one of those cities I booked on a whim and ended up staying an extra three days in. If you are planning your first trip, this Lisbon travel guide covers what actually matters once you land, from where to base yourself to how much you should expect to spend on a normal day.

The short version is this. Lisbon is hilly, sunny most of the year, cheaper than most of western Europe, and small enough that you can see the main areas in three or four days without rushing. Wear proper shoes and you will be fine.

When to go

Spring and early autumn are the sweet spots. April, May, September and October give you warm days without the heavy summer crowds. July and August get hot and busy, and hotel prices climb with the temperature. Winter is mild and quiet, and while you get the odd rainy day, you also get the city almost to yourself and much lower prices on flights and rooms.

If you can only travel in summer, book your accommodation early and plan your walking for the mornings. By early afternoon the sun on those pale stone streets is no joke.

Where to stay

Pick your neighbourhood based on the kind of trip you want.

• Baixa and Chiado sit right in the centre and put you within walking distance of almost everything. Good for a first visit when you want to keep things simple.
• Alfama is the old moorish quarter, full of narrow lanes, tiled houses and little squares. It looks incredible and feels lived in, but the hills are steep and some streets are too tight for cars, so pack light.
• Bairro Alto is the nightlife area. Great if you want bars on your doorstep, less great if you want silence before midnight.
• Príncipe Real is calmer, a bit more upmarket, and full of good cafes. I liked it as a base because it is close to the action but you can actually sleep.

You do not need a car in the city. In fact a car is a hassle here, so skip the rental unless you plan day trips on your own schedule.

Getting around

Lisbon is a walking city first, but the hills mean you will want backup. The metro is clean, cheap and easy, and it connects the airport to the centre in about twenty minutes. Buy a rechargeable Viva Viagem card at any station and load it with credit or single trips.

The famous yellow trams, especially the 28, run through the prettiest old streets. They are lovely, but they are also packed with tourists and a known spot for pickpockets, so keep your bag in front of you and your phone in your pocket. Tuk tuks are everywhere and will happily overcharge you, so agree a price first or just take the tram.

What to see

You do not need a rigid list, but a few places are worth building your days around.

• Belém, west of the centre, is home to the Jerónimos Monastery and the Belém Tower, both worth an hour each. This is also where you eat your first pastel de nata, warm from the original bakery.
• The São Jorge Castle sits at the top of the city and gives you the best wide view over the rooftops and the river. Go near sunset.
• The viewpoints, called miradouros, are scattered across the hills. Miradouro da Senhora do Monte and Miradouro de Santa Catarina are two of the best, and both are free.
• The Time Out Market is a big food hall where a lot of the city's respected chefs run small stalls. It gets busy, but it is a fast way to try a range of local dishes in one sitting.

Food and drink

Portuguese food is hearty and cheap by western European standards. Grilled fish, bacalhau in a hundred forms, hearty soups, and of course those custard tarts. A simple lunch at a local spot runs around eight to twelve euros. A sit down dinner with wine sits closer to twenty to thirty euros a head, and honestly the house wine is usually great and costs almost nothing.

Order a bica if you want an espresso, and try a glass of vinho verde on a warm afternoon. Ginjinha, a sour cherry liqueur served in tiny cups, is a fun street tradition and costs about a euro and a half.

What a day costs

Lisbon is friendly to a mid range budget. Here is a rough daily guide for one person outside the fancy places.

• Budget: 60 to 80 euros with a hostel bed, market food and mostly walking.
• Mid range: 120 to 160 euros with a nice hotel room, a couple of restaurant meals and a few paid sights.

Prices move around, so treat these as a starting point and check current rates before you book.

A few honest tips

The hills are steeper than the photos suggest, so give yourself time and do not overpack your days. Tap water is safe to drink. Tipping is not expected the way it is in the United States, though rounding up or leaving small change is polite. And do keep an eye on your belongings on the tram and in crowded viewpoints, since petty theft is the one real annoyance here.

How many days you need

Three full days is enough to see the centre, Belém, a couple of viewpoints and eat well. Add a fourth day if you want to slow down or take a day trip to Sintra, which is close by and full of fairytale palaces. Five days lets you do all of that without watching the clock.

Lisbon rewards a slow pace. Wander the side streets, sit in a square with a coffee, and let the city set the rhythm. That is when it is at its best.